Of Trains and Floating Markets: The Don Hoi Lot - Amphawa Adventure

Trading along the canal, with most food vendors in boats offering a variety of Thai dishes, is a way of life in Thailand. Naturally, foreigners would want to take a bite of this world. Most travel agencies offer a tour to the Damnoen Saduak floating market. My friends who have been there say that the place is a tad too foreigner-friendly, which kind of dilutes the experience. To the average tourist, this is good enough. To the more adventurous ones, however, they want nothing less than authenticity. Hence, the less touristy alternative - the Amphawa Floating Market.

NOTE: The Damnoen Saduak is a morning market, while the Amphawa is an evening market.

How to go to the Amphawa Floating Market

The Short, Easy Way:

Get off at the Victory Monument station of the BTS (in the side of Central Mall and 7-11). Very near 7-11 is the van terminal. You will easily see it as there is an opening like that of a small soi (street), where several vans are parked (Vans to Hua Hin and Pranburi, among others, are also available here).
Fare: THB 80
Travel time: 1.5 hours (granted traffic is okay)

No sweat.

If, however, you can spare your morning and wouldn't mind a teeny weeny bit more adventure, which includes two train rides and a boat ride, you can take the long way.

The Long, More Exciting Way (as suggested by Lonely Planet):

1. Get off at the Wongwian Yai BTS station. From here, it is a 5-10 minute walk to the Wongwian Yai Railway station.
   
   --> Turn right at Somdet Phra Chao Taksin Road, walking in the left side of the road.
   --> Turn left at the Phet Kasem Street. The railway station is what you will see first upon reaching this street.
   
   
   
2. Take the train from Wongwian Yai to Samut Sakhon. Tickets are sold at the counter. For this trip, it is imperative that you take either the 9:30 or the 10:30 trip. You will see why.
   
   The tricky thing is how to know that you must get off already, as you will rarely see the name of the train stops. Lucky for you (and us), the Samut Sakhon station is the first major stop. There will be many stops in between, but these are brief. Also, the Samut Sakhon Station is in the middle of a market. Get off at the left side of the station.
   
   Fare: THB 10
   Travel time: Approx 1 hour
   
   
3. Boat ride to Baan Laem
   
   --> After getting off, you will see a wet market. Turn right to get to the harbor.
   
   NOTE: If you took the 9:30 am train, you can explore the wet market area. If not, best to get going.
   
   --> At the first intersection, the boat terminal can easily be seen (left side). 7-11 is in the right side.
   
   
4. Take the boat to the cross to the opposite side.
   
   Fare: THB 3
   Travel time: 2mins
   
   
5. Take the motorcycle taxi going to Wat Chong Lom temple.
   
   Fare: THB 15
   Travel time: 5-10 mins
   
   TIP: You will know that it is a motorcycle taxi if the driver is wearing a vest.
   

   
   Inside the complex, there is a small floating restaurant where you can have lunch. A bit pricey for its location, with viands ranging from THB 100 - THB 180. Mineral water is THB 10. You also have to pay for the ice bucket.
   
   
   

   
   Your next train leaves at 1:30pm. If you still have time, try to visit the monk houses (much like a monastery) where the mortorcycle taxi dropped you off.
   
   
   If you feel like using the bathroom, there is a toilet in the floating restaurant, and also near the monk houses.
   
   

6. Just opposite the temple/shrine is your train stop, i.e. one among the many brief stops. Cross the road to reach this station called Tha Chalong.
   You can't afford to miss the 1:30 schedule, as the next train comes at 4:30pm. Get off at the Mae Klong station, Samut Songkhram, which I believe is the end of the line.
   
   Fare: THB 10
   Travel time: A little over an hour
   
   
   
7. After getting off, you will see that you are in the middle of a market. Head towards the road, turn right, and a little further you will see a hospital.
   
   From here you have two options: Go to Don Hoi Lot first before Amphawa, or go straight to Amphawa. The main attraction of Don Hoi Lot is the fossilized seashells, seen during the driest season of the year (low tide). Regardless, it is a good place to have a picnic (there is another market here and a few restaurants), or just to take a breather from your travel so far. It is quite breezy there. And the floating market comes to life in the evening anyway.
   
   To go to Don Hoi Lot, take a songthaew (like a mini-minibus or a big tuktuk) in front of the hospital.
   
   Fare: THB 15
   Travel time: 15 minutes
   
   
8. True, without the fossilized seashells, Don Hoi Lot is a mere park with nice breeze and a variety of food choices. But it still wouldn't hurt to take a peek into the body of water surrounding it, as the water is brown. Yeap, BROWN. As far as your eyes can see. I don't find it beautiful, but it is unique that way.
   
   
   
   
9. After your breather, time to go back to Mae Klong. Note that songthaews are only up to 5 pm.
   
   Fare: THB 15
   Travel time: 15 minutes
   
   
10. Get off at the hospital. Turn right, and a little further you will see shuttle buses to your left, going to Amphawa.
    
    Fare: THB 10
    Travel time: 15 minutes
    
    TIP: There is a tourist information booth near the hospital, at the intersection.
    
    
11. Just ask the driver to drop you off at Amphawa. (I know -- FINALLY!)
    
    
    
    

    For the much raved-about firefly tour (which, I admit, is just really beautiful), the cost is THB 60 per head. Get the 6:30pm tour, just about the right time to see the fireflies. The tour lasts a little over an hour, unless you get the longtail boat which is faster.
    

TIP: If you are not planning to stay overnight, keep in mind that the van from Amphawa back to Victory monument leaves at 8:20pm, at the latest. The van terminal is located at parking area, near the bridge from where you entered the market.