Romulo Café

It's Tuesday night. Who would've thought that just about every restaurant along Tomas Morato will be brimming with people? Parking was nearly impossible. We were nearing the end of the road so we decided to make a turn and just settle for Mesa. We were ready to make another turn at Sct. Dr. Lazcano when we saw Romulo Café, which was getting good reviews, I was told. I know that usually you would need to make reservations. Tonight we got lucky.

From outside, the place looked promising. This is actually a rented house by the late President Romulo's granddaughter, which they transformed into a Filipino restaurant (no, not fusion).

The waiting area seemed comfortable.

Sad that we were not able to avail of seats inside; though it wasn't so bad as no one was smoking during the duration of our meal. The night wind felt nice too.

We ordered molo soup. It wasn't as tasty as Pancake House's Almondigas Soup, which I love, but it seemed a healthier choice.
Oh, a caveat. I think I may have been used to very strong tastes and flavors, having stayed in Bangkok for quite a few months. That probably explains why I find most food bland lately.

I wanted to have pomelo salad as I am on a diet - but what's the point of going to a new restaurant? So I agreed to have a proper meal.

We had Crispy Tuyo Rice (Php130), Beef Caldereta with Queso de Bola (Php300) and Gising Gising (Php150).
The Tinapa Rice was good. Seems like everyone is doing a tuyo/tinapa flavor of everything these days.

Beef Caldereta was really good. Creamy and yummy. Best part of the meal.

Gising Gising was also good, better if you eat with green chili embedded in the dish. Unlike Recipe's Gising Gising, this one had just the right amount of spice as not to ruin your appetite.

The staff was very attentive and quick. The food did not take forever to arrive, and they served them all at the same time, which I totally appreciate. The place was clean and the crowd that night wasn't too noisy. Food prices weren't bad too. Recommended for a night out with friends.

*BURP

Of Trains and Floating Markets: The Don Hoi Lot - Amphawa Adventure

Trading along the canal, with most food vendors in boats offering a variety of Thai dishes, is a way of life in Thailand. Naturally, foreigners would want to take a bite of this world. Most travel agencies offer a tour to the Damnoen Saduak floating market. My friends who have been there say that the place is a tad too foreigner-friendly, which kind of dilutes the experience. To the average tourist, this is good enough. To the more adventurous ones, however, they want nothing less than authenticity. Hence, the less touristy alternative - the Amphawa Floating Market.

NOTE: The Damnoen Saduak is a morning market, while the Amphawa is an evening market.

How to go to the Amphawa Floating Market

The Short, Easy Way:

Get off at the Victory Monument station of the BTS (in the side of Central Mall and 7-11). Very near 7-11 is the van terminal. You will easily see it as there is an opening like that of a small soi (street), where several vans are parked (Vans to Hua Hin and Pranburi, among others, are also available here).
Fare: THB 80
Travel time: 1.5 hours (granted traffic is okay)

No sweat.

If, however, you can spare your morning and wouldn't mind a teeny weeny bit more adventure, which includes two train rides and a boat ride, you can take the long way.

The Long, More Exciting Way (as suggested by Lonely Planet):

1. Get off at the Wongwian Yai BTS station. From here, it is a 5-10 minute walk to the Wongwian Yai Railway station.
   
   --> Turn right at Somdet Phra Chao Taksin Road, walking in the left side of the road.
   --> Turn left at the Phet Kasem Street. The railway station is what you will see first upon reaching this street.
   
   
   
2. Take the train from Wongwian Yai to Samut Sakhon. Tickets are sold at the counter. For this trip, it is imperative that you take either the 9:30 or the 10:30 trip. You will see why.
   
   The tricky thing is how to know that you must get off already, as you will rarely see the name of the train stops. Lucky for you (and us), the Samut Sakhon station is the first major stop. There will be many stops in between, but these are brief. Also, the Samut Sakhon Station is in the middle of a market. Get off at the left side of the station.
   
   Fare: THB 10
   Travel time: Approx 1 hour
   
   
3. Boat ride to Baan Laem
   
   --> After getting off, you will see a wet market. Turn right to get to the harbor.
   
   NOTE: If you took the 9:30 am train, you can explore the wet market area. If not, best to get going.
   
   --> At the first intersection, the boat terminal can easily be seen (left side). 7-11 is in the right side.
   
   
4. Take the boat to the cross to the opposite side.
   
   Fare: THB 3
   Travel time: 2mins
   
   
5. Take the motorcycle taxi going to Wat Chong Lom temple.
   
   Fare: THB 15
   Travel time: 5-10 mins
   
   TIP: You will know that it is a motorcycle taxi if the driver is wearing a vest.
   

   
   Inside the complex, there is a small floating restaurant where you can have lunch. A bit pricey for its location, with viands ranging from THB 100 - THB 180. Mineral water is THB 10. You also have to pay for the ice bucket.
   
   
   

   
   Your next train leaves at 1:30pm. If you still have time, try to visit the monk houses (much like a monastery) where the mortorcycle taxi dropped you off.
   
   
   If you feel like using the bathroom, there is a toilet in the floating restaurant, and also near the monk houses.
   
   

6. Just opposite the temple/shrine is your train stop, i.e. one among the many brief stops. Cross the road to reach this station called Tha Chalong.
   You can't afford to miss the 1:30 schedule, as the next train comes at 4:30pm. Get off at the Mae Klong station, Samut Songkhram, which I believe is the end of the line.
   
   Fare: THB 10
   Travel time: A little over an hour
   
   
   
7. After getting off, you will see that you are in the middle of a market. Head towards the road, turn right, and a little further you will see a hospital.
   
   From here you have two options: Go to Don Hoi Lot first before Amphawa, or go straight to Amphawa. The main attraction of Don Hoi Lot is the fossilized seashells, seen during the driest season of the year (low tide). Regardless, it is a good place to have a picnic (there is another market here and a few restaurants), or just to take a breather from your travel so far. It is quite breezy there. And the floating market comes to life in the evening anyway.
   
   To go to Don Hoi Lot, take a songthaew (like a mini-minibus or a big tuktuk) in front of the hospital.
   
   Fare: THB 15
   Travel time: 15 minutes
   
   
8. True, without the fossilized seashells, Don Hoi Lot is a mere park with nice breeze and a variety of food choices. But it still wouldn't hurt to take a peek into the body of water surrounding it, as the water is brown. Yeap, BROWN. As far as your eyes can see. I don't find it beautiful, but it is unique that way.
   
   
   
   
9. After your breather, time to go back to Mae Klong. Note that songthaews are only up to 5 pm.
   
   Fare: THB 15
   Travel time: 15 minutes
   
   
10. Get off at the hospital. Turn right, and a little further you will see shuttle buses to your left, going to Amphawa.
    
    Fare: THB 10
    Travel time: 15 minutes
    
    TIP: There is a tourist information booth near the hospital, at the intersection.
    
    
11. Just ask the driver to drop you off at Amphawa. (I know -- FINALLY!)
    
    
    
    

    For the much raved-about firefly tour (which, I admit, is just really beautiful), the cost is THB 60 per head. Get the 6:30pm tour, just about the right time to see the fireflies. The tour lasts a little over an hour, unless you get the longtail boat which is faster.
    

TIP: If you are not planning to stay overnight, keep in mind that the van from Amphawa back to Victory monument leaves at 8:20pm, at the latest. The van terminal is located at parking area, near the bridge from where you entered the market.

Jim Thompson House Museum, Bangkok

I don’t know which is more interesting: the fact that Jim Thompson revived the Thai silk industry; or that he mysteriously disappeared/died in 1967. The former is more relevant, but it is the latter that apparently makes us go to Google for more information.

Guilty.

However, what really made me want to give his house a visit are:

(1) a promise of a visual feast (Mr Thompson was an architect, among many things); and

(2) curiosity about whether his products were significantly better than others to command such high prices;

Going to Jim Thompson House Museum:

Take the BTS (Skytrain) to National Stadium station through to Exit 1. Turn right at Soi Kasemsan Song (2), straight ahead to the end of the soi (street).



Admission:

THB 100 for adults and THB 50 for those below 25.

Getting Around Jim Thompson House Museum

As part of the admission fee, there will be a guided tour of the area which takes about 30-40 minutes, after which you can then enjoy the place at your own pace. Photo-taking is not allowed inside the House.


Also, for “farangs (foreigners),” there are special groups for English, French and Japanese tours.

What I Thought

I thoroughly enjoyed the tour. I have listed the things I discovered and liked, but I leave these unwritten here so as not to spoil your own experience.

As for the products, I have this to say:

I am not the target market of Jim Thompson merchandise. :D

Beyond Bangkok: Ancient City

Going to Ancient City has mostly been on account of wanting to “see the entire Thailand in one day.” True, that is the first come-on. However, after some research, I had more reasons to want to see this place:

(1) It is the largest outdoor museum in the world;

(2) Not everything is a mere replica; some are originals that were moved to this place for preservation;

(3) Even the replicas are said to be very beautiful;

(4) It is outside Bangkok, so it is a chance to experience Thailand beyond its main city.

Going to Ancient City

1. Take BTS to Ekkamai Station, exiting at Exit 3
   Wait for Bus 511 or 25
   NOTE: Do not expect a nice bus stop with bench. You will only see a bus stop sign where you are to wait for the bus. This is near 7-11.
   
   TIP: It may take a while for Bus 511 (Aircon) to arrive. Bus 25 (Ordinary / Non-aircon) comes more often, AND IT IS FREE.
   
   
2. Get off once you see this landmark:
   

   
   
   TIP: Another landmark: A huge elephant with three heads. Once you see this, you are quite near Bangpoo already.
   
   

3. Ride the “minibus” 36. Do not be fooled by the name. It looks like this:

TIP: Tell the driver to let you off at ‘Muang Borang’ as that is how Ancient City is called in Thai. Payment is made once you get off. As of February 2011, fare is THB8 per person. The entrance to Ancient City is to your left. When getting off, you will have to press a button (they come in green and red) inside the minibus.

Here is the entrance to Ancient City:

All in all, the trip will be roughly 1 hour.

You can, of course, go by taxi. But it takes the fun out of the experience.

Admission to Ancient City

As of February 2011, entrance fee is THB350 for adults. To get updated fees, visit their site. This is already inclusive of bicycle rent.

Getting Around Ancient City

I wouldn’t say walking around the 80-hectare area is impossible, but it just might dehydrate you to your last drop of body liquid. Hence, here are your more viable options:

Bicycle – FREE
Golf cart
o For 2 – THB 150-THB 200 per hour

o For 6 – THB 450 per hour

NOTE: If by any case you meet with an accident and have no driver’s license, you are accountable for any damage in the vehicle.

Tram - FREE
o Available every hour but it is possible that you will not be able to see the entire area.

Allot 1 day for this activity if you want to really know Thailand and see all structures. Of course, it is always possible to shorten this – all up to you. However, you may not feel you have known Thailand if you just take pictures without reading the descriptions and taking everything in.

My Story

From Ekkamai Station, we took Bus 25 after waiting for Bus 511 for 30 minutes. Not bad for a free ride. We arrived at the landmark I told you about at around 12:30, so we looked for a restaurant. Luckily, there was one right where we got off. Unluckily, of course they did not speak English, nor did they have a menu. Fortunate that I downloaded a Speak Thai app, with words in Thai and in English. So I got a piece of a paper and wrote down in Thai our order, keeping our fingers crossed that they have these:

ต้มยำกุ้ง (Tum Yum Kung)

ผัดไทย (Pad Thai)

ปลาทอด (Fried Fish (we saw one in another table – biiig fried fish covered in much too much garlic))

ข้าว (Rice)

ไข่ (Egg (fallback in case we don’t like the others))

ข้าวเหนียวมะม่วง (Sticky rice with mango)

น้ำเปล่า (Water)

Success! They understood my Thai writing, and they had almost all, the exception being the sticky rice with mango. Wish I took a picture of my Thai writing before I gave it to the lady.

Bill: THB 332

After lunch, we tried asking an old lady working in the restaurant how to go to Ancient City. By this time I already had read about “Muang Borang” so while she was speaking Thai (knowing I don’t understand Thai), I caught “Muang Borang” and “songthaew” (Thai for the minibus), and she was pointing in the direction of the minibus (which I gathered by contect clues).

TIP: In asking for directions, you can say:

yu tee nai. E.g. Muang Borang (pronounced Muang Bolang) yu tee nai?

Yu tee nai is “where”, and yes, they as it in this reverse way if your point of comparison is the English language.

Some other useful phrases:

Leow Say? (Do I turn left?)

Leow Kwa? (Do I turn right?)

Trong Pai? (Do I go straight ahead?)

These are rough Thai phrases – and although I add the question mark, they don’t have the same rising tone we have for asking questions.

Once in minibus 36, we kept our eyes open, and noticed that passengers getting off press the green button shown above, got off, went near the driver and paid. Okay, got that. After a while, fearing that we have passed the entrance already, I asked the person beside me: Muang Borang yu tee nai? And I gathered that it will take a few more minutes. Yes, it’s not a very short ride so don’t worry your head off.

Finally, the entrance!

Paid entrance fee: check!

Paid rental for golf cart: check! (it was too hot for a bike, and the tram just left, the next in almost an hour. Of course I knew that we would extend beyond an hour, so I already prepared money for two hours)

Got our map: check!

And off we drove.

The place is in the shape of Thailand, how thoughtful.

We were given a map but after a few structures, we found ourselves driving to whichever direction we please. It was fun! The floating market, in particular, was beautiful. Here are some pictures:

Two hours was not enough, but it was already 4:00 in the afternoon and we were already quite tired.

Going back, there’s an overpass so you can go to the other side of the road and wait for the minibus 36. We got off when everyone else got off, asked the driver; “Rot bus Ha-neung-neung (5-1-1) yu tee nai?" and he pointed us to where we can wait for the bus. As luck would have it, we were again on Bus 25. This time it wasn’t free (weird). But the fare was only THB8. Imagine that!

P.S.

I don’t know where these 511s were when we wanted them!

We got off at Ekkamai and took the BTS-BRT going home.

This was the only thing we achieved that day, through our own fault. We did not wake up early so it was practically noon when we got to Ekkamai. We were also back in the hotel by 5-6 pm. Still early, but we decided to call it a day.